Hotel Rocamarina – Santanyí & Portocolom Loop

The Portocolom loop is the easiest of the three road rides that start and finish at Hotel Rocamarina in Cala d’Or, on the south-east coast of Mallorca. Over 41.4 km it links the inland town of Santanyí with the villages of s’Alqueria Blanca, Calonge and s’Horta and the fishing harbour of Portocolom, on rolling country roads with no named climbs. Allow around two hours at a relaxed pace. It is a good first ride after arrival, a recovery day between longer outings or an introduction to cycling on the island for less experienced riders.

From the hotel the route leaves Cala d’Or heading inland and west, through farmland and past the turn-offs to the coves of the Mondragó area, to reach Santanyí after about 10 km. Santanyí is the main town of the municipality and the natural place for the first coffee stop: its streets are built in the golden local sandstone, the parish church of Sant Andreu stands on the main square, and the old town gate, the Porta Murada, survives from the former walls. There are several cafés and bakeries around the square.

Leaving Santanyí, the Portocolom loop turns north-east along quiet lanes framed by dry-stone walls, almond and carob trees and small fields of cereals. The road rises and falls gently, never steeply, and passes through the hamlet of s’Alqueria Blanca at around 18 km. Shortly afterwards you reach Calonge and then s’Horta, two small villages that sit almost next to each other and form the hinge of the route.

From s’Horta the road runs down towards the coast and the bay of Portocolom, which you reach at roughly 28 km. This is the lowest point and the turning point of the ride. You then climb back gently to s’Horta on the same road for about 7 km, turn south at Calonge and enjoy an easy, mostly downhill run back to Cala d’Or and the hotel.

Portocolom is one of the largest natural harbours in Mallorca and the highlight of the ride. Traditional wooden fishing boats are moored along the waterfront, the small boathouses at the water’s edge are painted in bright colours, and the lighthouse stands on the headland at the mouth of the bay. Seafront cafés and restaurants make it a good place for a longer break before the return. The inland half of the Portocolom loop shows a different side of the island: a patchwork of fields, old farmhouses and stone villages that most beach visitors never see.

The roads are paved throughout. Some of the country lanes are narrow, so ride in single file when cars approach and expect the occasional tractor. In Spain a helmet is compulsory for cyclists on roads outside towns, and drivers must leave at least 1.5 m when overtaking. There is water and food in Santanyí, Calonge, s’Horta and Portocolom, so you only need to carry one bottle.

The Portocolom loop can be ridden all year round. Spring and autumn bring the best temperatures; in summer, set off early in the morning to avoid the midday heat, and in winter carry a light windproof, as the breeze off the sea can be cool on the return. It also works well as a family or group ride, because the short distance and the frequent villages make it easy to regroup. Because the Portocolom loop is short and well signposted between villages, it is also simple to follow with only a basic bike computer or a phone.

The route starts and finishes at Hotel Rocamarina, close to Cala Gran in Cala d’Or. If you want to ride further after the Portocolom loop, the hotel’s Ses Salines loop continues across the plain of southern Mallorca, and the Sant Salvador and Cura loop takes on two of the island’s classic climbs.